Jesus, that was an adventure!
If you are based in Manila and trying to visit the legendary 101 year old tattoo artist it will be a long way but worth the struggle.
Whang-Od's hood is Buscalan, where she tattoos people on a regular basis.
First thing you have to do is to take the Coda Lines bus from the HM Transport Bus Terminal in Cubao, Quezon City, Manila TO Bontoc.
Buses are departing every evening at roughly 8:00 PM, 9:00PM and 9:30PM and cost around 800php per person. It's filipino time - so you can't really rely on the schedule too much... but don't worry the buses will drive sooner or later.
If you will manage to sleep in the bus despite the bumby roads good honor!
I couldn't sleep much but my drive for adventure kept me alive throughout the next day 😁
After the 9 hours ride you arrive in Bontoc, where you can catch a jeepney (80php) - just ask the locals where the jeepney station is, it's a 10 minute walk from the bus drop off.
You have to sit on the topload!!! Otherwise you will miss an epic scenic view ;)
I met a french guy on top of the jeepney who is actually the boyfriend of whang-ods niece.
Because of her high age, Whang-od is only tattooing her signature (three dots).
She taught her nieces the traditional way of tattooing with a thorn and since then they are doing the main tattoing.
So this french guy got tattoed from her one niece, felt in love and moved to a nearby village... what the hell :D
After the one hour jeepney ride you get dropped of at a little shop, where normally a few guides welcome you.
A guide is nescessary to go to Buscalan, but choose wisely! Ask the guide if he or she is living in Buscalan and can provide a sleeping place and food for you.
As the place became quiet touristic you should stay there at least one or two nights because you have to sign in a big whang odd waiting list.
Once you found you guide you take a motorbike closer to Buscalan and start a little one hour hike :)
Your guide will take care of you, show you around Buscalan and lead you through the registration process as soon as you reach the little village.
I would recommend, that you bring some sweets for the children in the village!
If you want to have a little chat with whang-od, try to be one of the last people in the list and wait till everybody else is finished. Otherwise you won't have time for anything more than just a picture as everybody will rush you.
I was quiet lucky as i was the last one who got tattooed and I was able to chat a little bit with her. Even if we didn't understand each other much because of the language barrier I really enjoyed hanging out with such a wise, humble and cheeky old lady :)
You won't have reception or wifi in Buscalan, so try to socialize with the locals!
Buses back from Bontoc are departing every day at around 2:30PM and 4:00PM :)
That's it! Don't make excuses and go there the next time you will be in Manila or somewhere closer to Buscalan ;) You never know how long whang-od will stick to her daily tattoing routine, so you better hurry 😁
Start exploring!
